Part of Marmalade’s Copenhagen SS27 show reviews. Our founders and team were lucky enough to attend Copenhagen Fashion Week, and while some of the images are our own, others are courtesy of the brands and their respective teams. Please enjoy!
After two years away from the Copenhagen Fashion Week runway, Stine Goya returned with Before, a collection built around the strange feeling of standing on the edge of something you cannot yet see coming. Inspired by Florian Illies’ 1913: The Year Before the Storm, Goya looked to a moment when artists, writers, and thinkers were creating together without knowing how dramatically the world around them was about to change.
Hi, from us in the front row!
Living in 1913
There is something especially fitting about bringing this idea to the runway now. Goya drew a parallel between the uncertainty of 1913 and our own moment, where technology, AI, and a rapidly changing world have made it increasingly difficult to know what comes next. Rather than making the collection feel heavy, though, she turned that uncertainty into an excuse to create.
The runway itself played with that sense of movement. Models circled the audience in a spiralling formation, creating an almost hypnotic rhythm as the collection unfolded. It felt like watching a world constantly moving forward without ever quite knowing where it would land.
A Return to Goya
The collection felt like a return to the things Stine Goya does best, but with a slightly sharper edge. Painterly florals and expressive prints remained central, joined by sculptural silhouettes, draped silk scarves, and rich Rococo-inspired motifs. Bright colors appeared across the collection, while more embellished pieces brought a sense of glamour that felt distinctly Goya.
There was also something noticeably cooler about the styling. Ribbon-laced Dr. Martens gave the romantic pieces a tougher attitude, while strass bras with loose back laces added a little bit of sparkle without making the collection feel overly precious. One of our favorite looks being a monochrome silver blue dress, fitted perfectly at the waist, with matching colored ribbons on the shoes. The models all perfectly fit their looks to an inexplicable point, this one having the most beautiful silver hair and bright blue eyes. The balance between sweetness and something slightly rebellious made the collection feel especially fresh.
The Art of the Everyday
What makes Stine Goya so exciting for Marmalade is the way these artistic ideas can still become part of an everyday wardrobe. A hand-painted print can completely change a simple silhouette, while a dramatic accessory or embellished piece can make something familiar feel new.
Before ultimately feels like a celebration of creativity itself. If the future is uncertain, Goya seems to suggest, there is no better response than making something beautiful anyway. After two years away, Stine Goya returned to Copenhagen with a collection that feels less like looking backward and more like standing right before something new begins.
We were so lucky to experience Stine Goya SS27 in Copenhagen and are incredibly excited to see some of the collection make its way into Marmalade for the new season. Keep an eye out because there is plenty to look forward to!