Part of Marmalade’s Copenhagen SS27 show reviews. Our founders and team were lucky enough to attend Copenhagen Fashion Week, and while some of the images are our own, others are courtesy of the brands and their respective teams. Please enjoy!
Baum und Pferdgarten took us somewhere between the ballet studio and the street for Spring/Summer 2027. Set in Copenhagen’s King’s Garden, After the Rehearsal was inspired by something wonderfully simple: the designers would sit and watch ballerinas as they arrived at and left rehearsal, noticing what they wore before and after stepping into the studio. That in-between moment became the foundation for an undone ballerina: no perfect bun, no pristine pink tutu, no pressure to be perfectly put together. Instead, she is slightly messy, a little unexpected, and on her way somewhere else.
Forget the Coquette Clean Girl
The collection felt like a very intentional departure from the polished ballet aesthetic we have become so accustomed to. Forget the coquette clean girl…this ballerina has somewhere to be.
Leg warmers, ballet flats, capri leggings, satin, lace-up details, and tiny tutu-inspired pieces appeared alongside oversized sportswear, leather, denim, and everyday separates. Rather than recreating a ballerina’s wardrobe, Baum und Pferdgarten imagined what she might actually wear once she walks out of the studio.
That tension between the delicate and the undone is what made the collection so good. A ballet slipper could be thrown over the shoulder, a leg warmer could peek out from underneath a more everyday look, and a tiny tutu could become an unexpected accessory rather than a costume. The result felt playful without becoming overly precious.
A Little Nelly Furtado
There was a very specific soundtrack behind the collection. While designing SS27, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave listened to old Nelly Furtado songs, eventually coming across a description of Furtado as an “un-done ballerina girl.” The phrase stuck, becoming part of the personality behind the collection and the soundtrack for the show.
And honestly, it makes perfect sense. There is something very Nelly Furtado about the girl Baum und Pferdgarten created: feminine but sporty, a little rebellious, slightly unexpected, and never too polished.
The Essence of a Ballerina is a Baby Deer
The most charming part of the collection was its understanding of what a ballerina really is. Beneath all the discipline and precision, there is something delicate and almost animalistic about her, a little like a baby deer. Soft, slightly awkward, alert, and beautiful without trying too hard.
That idea came through in the collection’s softer details, from deer print to ballet-inspired silhouettes and a wash of pale pink. The pink felt less like a trend and more like a nod to the original ballerina. The color we instinctively associate with ballet before the fashion world turned it into an entire aesthetic.
After the Rehearsal
What makes After the Rehearsal work is that it does not ask us to become ballerinas. Instead, it asks us to borrow a little of her wardrobe and leave the rest behind. We could all use a little baby deer in our hearts and our clothes. A pair of leg warmers with sportswear, a ballet flat with denim, or a touch of pink against something oversized is enough.
Baum und Pferdgarten has taken something traditionally delicate and made it feel a little cooler, a little messier, and much more real. It is ballet after the curtain closes, when the shoes come off, the hair falls down, and the girl underneath finally gets to go out.
We were so lucky to experience Baum und Pferdgarten SS27 in Copenhagen and cannot wait to see some of these pieces make their way into Marmalade for the new season. Consider this your sign to leave the perfectly polished ballerina behind.